Professionally Formulated Peels – Protocol
A list of Peels and related products:
- Glycolic Acid
- Lactic Acid
- Mandelic Acid
- Jessner Peel
- Phytic Acid
- Salicylic Acid
- Peel Pre and post peel products + Post Peel Neutralizer.
What kinds of conditions do chemical peels treat?
Chemical peels can treat a variety of conditions including:
- Oily skin
- Acne scarring
- Fine lines
- Sun damage
- Mild scarring
- Age spots
- Stretch marks
- Pigment irregularities from pregnancy or birth control pills
Skin resurfacing has been done for more than 5000 years. Fruit acids and sour milk was used by the ancient Egyptians to beautify the face and body, while early Europeans used soured wine to clarify the skin. Physicians began using chemical peeling agents in the 1880’s. In the early 1900’s evidence suggests superficial and medium depth peels were being performed using salicylic acid, resorcinol, phenol, and TCA.
The Fitzpatrick Scale is a tool used in determining potential reaction and tolerance levels associated with facial treatments, and opens the doors of communication between the medical and esthetic professions. If you are not familiar with this scale, it is recommended that you learn it prior to performing peel applicatins as it also provides decisive guidelines for recognizing skin types that are more sensitive to pigmentation and poor healing (keloid).
The success of a peel procedure depends on many aspects. No matter how superficial the agent you are using, you are still applying something caustic to the skins surface. You may experience sensations of itching, burning, and stinging during a peel. You must be able to determine whether you are a good candidate for this type of product and also prepared properly. Use pre-post peel home care products for before and after the peel procedure. Most importantly; a cleanser and a sunblock. Next, a hyaluronic acid and a rejuvenating moisturizer.
Peeling Agents and Classifications
The terms exfoliation and peel are often used interchangeably. In recent years, efforts have been made in esthetic circles to make clear distinctions between the two. True “peels” tend to have medium to deep action, reaching into the papillary dermis. Trichloroacetic Acid is a chemical agent that gives this depth of action, as well as mechanical devices including lasers. Exfoliation commonly refers to a procedure performed by an esthetician, with only superficial, (or at most medium) penetration and action. Examples include scrubs, Alpha Hydroxy Acids such as Glycolic, Lactic, Tartaric acids and more; modified Jessners, and similar agents that work only in the layers of the epidermis. This includes the mechanical technique microdermabrasion as well. Performing a peel or chemical exfoliation involves the use of destructive chemical agents that wound the skin. During this process, the normal alterations in the superficial layers and the remodeling in deeper layers of the skin help increase and thicken the collagen matrix, thereby increasing collagen and elasticity.
Self Neutralizing vs. Neutralizing Peels
Some agents Such as Glycolic Acid, are applied to the skin, timed, and then neutralized to stop the action of skin penetration. On the other hand, Self neutralizing exfoliants – such as salicylic acid, Jessners, and TCA- are applied to the skin in one or more layers that dry on the skin. These are not removed; the client follows special care instructions for the next 24-48 hours, depending on the procedure.
Preparation should include removal of contact lenses. Always have plenty of water and neutralizing solution at arms length. Protect hair with cap. Give client hand held fan. Remove eye makeup and cleanse the skin. Dry thoroughly. Cover eyes with eye pads. Wear surgical gloves. Optional: prep with a solution on the entire face and neck or area that is being treated. Use a diluted strength for initial use. Always test patch skin prior to use of a peel.
AHA Peels (Glycolic Acid or Lactic Acid)
Pour approximately 1 tsp. of solution into glass (dilute to 5-10% strength for initial application). Apply evenly to face and then neck area. Depending on the strength of peel and clients comfort level, leave on 30 seconds to 5 minutes. Spray a generous amount of Neutralizer directly onto skin, or saturate gauze pads and pat over entire area. A solution of water and baking soda may also be used. Rinse with tepid water until thoroughly removed. Apply a Hyaluronic Acid to treated area. Client should wear sunscreen as well.
BHA Peels (Salicylic Acid)
Pour approximately one tsp. of solution into glass (dilute to 5-10% strength for initial application). Be sure the skin is moist with even layer of water on the face area. Apply an even layer of the peel to the face avoiding lips, eyes. Allow to dry (frost). One or more layers may be applied. Solution is not neutralized or removed. Apply a Hyaluronic Acid to treated area. Client should wear sunscreen as well.
Pour approximately one tsp. of solution into glass (dilute to 5-10% strength for initial application). Apply an even layer to face avoiding lips, eyes. Week one: apply one layer. Week two: apply up to two layers. Week three: apply up to three layers. Wait 3-5 minutes between coats. Do not exceed 3 layers. Subsequent treatments may be done every 4-6 weeks after the initial treatment. Skin should not be washed for 24 hours following application. Apply a Hyaluronic Acid to treated area. Client should wear sunscreen as well.
TCA has the ability to penetrate into the papillary dermis and therefore should be used with extreme caution. Layering of the TCA peel should be performed only by qualified technicians or under medical supervision. Frosting may or may not appear.
Pour approximately one tsp. of solution into glass (dilute to lowest strength 1-2% for initial application). Apply an even layer to face avoiding lips, eyes. Allow to dry (frost). One or more layers may be applied. A cool towel may be applied for client comfort. Solution does not need to be rinsed or removed. Apply a Hyaluronic Acid to treated area. Client should wear sunscreen as well, and completely avoid sun exposure and overheating. No sunglasses should be worn and client should sleep on back.
Pour approximately one tsp. of solution into glass (dilute to 5-10% strength for initial application). Apply an even layer to face avoiding lips, eyes. Allow to process 30 seconds – 5 minutes depending on client comfort level. Rinse with tepid water until thoroughly removed. Apply a Hyaluronic Acid to treated area. Client should wear sunscreen as well.
What % Strength Do I Start With?
Our professional grade peels are formulated to treat common signs of aging: uneven tone and texture, fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, acne, enlarged pores and much more. Available in many concentrations for all skin types, containing a combination of alpha and beta hydroxy acids, antioxidants, and anti-agers.
We always recommend that first time users begin at 10% and slowly increase every month or so until desired results are achieved. If your skin is oily, combination, non sensitive, or is accustomed to peels, then you can start at 20% but we always recommend proceeding with caution. Always perform a patch test on skin to ensure that acid is not too strong for you. Please keep in mind that not all chemical peels are the same. Some can be buffered to reduce their strength. Our peels are Professional Level Low pH, making them maximum strength.
For a minimum of two weeks, begin and end each day by washing with a pH acidic cleanser. If you have pigmented skin, or are a darker Fitzgerald skin type, apply a tyrosine inhibitor such as our skin lightening treatment, immediately after cleansing. Apply an anti-oxidant and an SPF 30+ cream each day. In the evening apply Retinol (.10, .20 or .30), RetinA™ or a Glycolic Serum to gently prime the skin for the peel solution.
Keep your skin moisturized with a quality, healing product.
- Check with your doctor before use if you are pregnant or to find out if this is right for you.
- Never apply another transdermal product during a chemical peel (No Emu oil until neutralization is complete!)
- Never use a chemical peel if you have been/are-using accutane in the past 6 months.
- Never apply a peel after another facial exfoliating product (scrubs of any type).
- Stop using Retin-a at least 2 days before performing a peel.
- Keep the Peel Solution at least a quarter of an inch away from the eyes and mucus membranes.
- If severe skin irritation occurs, remove the product by rinsing with cool water and consult a physician.
- Do not apply to irritated, sensitive skin or skin with open wounds or after extraction.
- Do not expose your face to the sun for 24 hours before or after the application of the chemical Peel. Then use a minimum SPF 30 on a daily basis.
- Do not apply the Peel to skin that has been waxed or shaved within 24 Hours.
- Slight reddening of the skin may occur for a limited period of time especially with sensitive skin types.
A higher peel % can easily be altered to a lower percentage by diluting. The diluted percentages will still have a low pH level and may be applied bi-weekly to keep skin exfoliated and refreshed. Always start with the 10% strength and can choose to work your way up to higher levels peels.
I understand and acknowledge that I am under no obligation to follow any recommendations made by the seller. I understand the seller does not treat illnesses and any information received is intended to help me make an informed decision. I assume the risk of any adverse effects or consequences resulting from the use or misuse of any of the suggestions, preparations, or procedures. I hereby release, hold harmless, and discharge the seller and all of its officers, employees, agents and suppliers from all claims of damages, demands, or actions whatsoever in any manner arising from or growing out of my participation.
*Misuse of this product can cause injury or burns. Always follow directions exactly. Do not extend peeling times. Use peels as directed, our peels and products are safe and effective. By using this product you agree that Beautiste Brands LLC assumes no responsibility for misuse of this product or for any consequences or injuries as a result of using any of our products. Keep out of reach of children.
STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS (see product for EXACT instructions, each peel and each % strength is different):
Follow PRE-TREATMENT for 2 weeks for best results. Dark and pigmented types use FB serum.
Apply your TEST patch at least 24 hours prior to peel to check for allergies or excessive irritation..
Cleanse skin with a deep cleanser.
Apply layer of Prep A (or highest percentage alcohol) and let air dry.
Dilute Solution to preferred percentage in medicine cup.
Fold a gauze pad in half and dip into solution, saturating pad.
Fold gauze in half again and squeeze to remove excess solution.
Use a timer and set it for desired peel time.
Apply peel in a horizontal motion across the entire face/neck.
Apply peel again, this time in a vertical motion across the entire face/neck. (The cheek, lip and nose areas are the most sensitive, so they may be done last to avoid excess irritation—Avoid eye and mucus membrane areas). A stinging/itching sensation is normal when using the Peel Solution, but a very mild sensation to no sensation at all is also acceptable as individual tolerances differ. Watch for any redness and neutralize acid with water if necessary. If any frosting (white spotting) is apparent, dab to neutralize immediately.
When time has ended apply Neutralizer and/or rinse with cool water.
Pat skin dry and follow with a moisturizer. (DO NOT USE any active ingredients such as glycolic, retinol, hydroquinone, etc for at least 5 days after a peel is performed)
Coverup – use a sunscreen. Use of a sunscreen SPF 30+ is critical. All peels (AHA, BHA) may make skin more sensitive to the sun, be certain adequate sunscreen protection while using a peel and for several weeks after a final treatment. Cover up! Put on lots of sunscreen.
FOR PROFESSIONAL USE
More is NOT better. Use directions carefully. Always patch test first. Always dilute to the lowest 10% strength and work your way from there.
Never use manual exfoliators nor scrubbing brushes within 24 hours of using a peel.
Stop Retin A, benzoyl peroxides, acne products and any other drying agents 24 hours before and after using an alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy peel.
If you are allergic to aspirin products, never use a salicylic acid nor beta hydroxy peel. Persons with milk allergies, should not use Lactic Acid products.
Never apply a peel without doing a patch-test first and waiting 48 hours for results.
Never apply a chemical peel to inflamed skin.
Always read product directions and do not try shortcuts.
When in doubt about a caution, please write or call us for more information.
If you have any medical questions as to whether you should be performing these peels, please consult your physician or dermatologist before you proceed.